How to properly Hot-Wire a Car

How to properly Hot-Wire a Car

Introduction
Hot-wiring a car is generally done as an illegal activity. However, there are times when there is a legitimate need to start your vehicle without turning the key—maybe your ignition lock tumbler has failed or you lost your keys. The specifics of hot-wiring a car will vary from model to model, but the general method should remain similar. The method provided takes more time than ripping and cutting up wires and panels, but it eliminates damage to the car’s interior.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Things You'll Need

* Screwdriver
* Wire strippers
* Insulated gloves

Steps
1
Step One
Locate the ignition tumbler, the spot where you normally put your key. Remove the covers and panels around the tumbler.
2
Step Two
Examine the ignition setup. There should be a panel with five to eight wires clipped to the rear of the tumbler. Remove the panel and try to manually turn the ignition switch using a screwdriver. If you can do this, then you are done! When you turn the ignition switch (usually with a key), it rotates a pin or lever on the back side of the tumbler. The panel is essentially a switch with four positions: off, accessories, full on and ignition. The different positions of the key correspond to each of these positions.
3
Step Three
Research the color coding of the ignition wires for your specific car model. If you are not able to manually turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, you will have to strip wires to hot-wire the car.
4
Step Four
Locate the “on” positive and negative wires in the steering column. They should run up to the ignition tumbler and be color-coded.
5
Step Five
Pull those wires from the ignition, strip a portion of each and twist them together. The car will now be on and ready for ignition. This is where you truly hot-wire a car. These wires carry a charge, which is why they are called “hot.”
6
Step Six
Find the starter wires and pull them from the ignition tumbler as well. Strip the ends and touch these wires together briefly. This should activate the starter, firing up the car. If you have done everything properly, your car will now be running. Do not leave these wires touching each other once the car is running.
7
Step Seven
Cover up any exposed wires to avoid painful electric shocks. Drive away and have your ignition repaired or a new key made so you do not have to hot-wire the car regularly.
Tips & Warnings

* Remember that just because the car is running, the steering wheel may not operate. Many cars have the steering wheel lock hooked into the ignition tumbler as an antitheft measure. So you cannot unlock the steering wheel without the key.
* Be careful around live wires. They carry a significant charge and can give painful shocks. Touch only the insulation and wear insulated gloves, if possible.

How to Properly Winterize Your Car

How to Properly Winterize Your Car

Introduction
Winter can be rough on cars, so unless you live in a warm or moderate climate, here's a list of things you can do to make sure your vehicle is ready for the upcoming cold season.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Things You'll Need

* Gloves
* Blankets
* Windshield Wiper Fluid
* Wiper Blades
* Kitty Litters
* Small Snow Shovels
* Auto Emergency Kits
* Flashlights
* Ice Scrapers
* Tire Gauges

Steps
1
Step One
Don't put off a 30,000-mile full service, if your car is due.
2
Step Two
Flush the cooling system and replace the coolant.
3
Step Three
Replace the windshield wiper blades. Put windshield washer fluid in the windshield washer reservoir (plain water will freeze).
4
Step Four
Have the battery serviced (clean the battery terminal ends and add water) and load-tested to check its ability to hold a charge. If the battery is more than 4 1/2 years old, replace it.
5
Step Five
Use a tire gauge to check the tire pressure. Air contracts with cold, and the tires may become low as the temperature drops.
6
Step Six
Make sure there is air in the spare tire and that all the proper tire-changing equipment is in the trunk.
7
Step Seven
Make sure the tires are in good condition. If you are not sure what this means, ask a mechanic (in a shop that doesn't sell tires) for an opinion.
8
Step Eight
Check the lights, heater and defroster.
9
Step Nine
Keep the gas tank as full as possible to prevent moisture from freezing in the gas lines.
10
Step Ten
Get a brake check if you haven't had one in the last six months.
11
Step Eleven
Put together an emergency winter kit for the trunk of your car: blanket, extra boots and gloves, ice scraper, small snow shovel, flashlight and kitty litter (for traction when stuck in the snow).


For really cold places - For the northern extremes, where you'll be starting the vehicle in colder weather all winter long, you may want to consider getting an engine block heater, a batter heater, and possibly an oil pan heater. These are plugged into an electrical cord, and keep the engine and battery warm enough to start, even when it gets extremely cold. Also, it keeps the exhaust cleaner in the end.

How to Properly Jump-Start a Car

How to Properly Jump-Start a Car

SafeTips
Jump-Starting a Car
Most people think they know how to use jumper cables on a car's battery, but you'd be amazed how many people do it the wrong way. Follow these suggestions when getting your car back on the road.

* Check your owner's manual before jump-starting your car or using it to jump-start another car. Some new cars had specific instructions or prohibit jump-starting.
* If it is OK to jump-start, attach the jumper cables correctly.

1. Clamp one cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Don't let the positive cable touch anything metal other than the battery terminals.
2. Connect the other end of the positive cable to the positive terminal of the good battery.
3. Connect one end of the negative (-) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery.
4. Connect the other end of the negative cable to metal on the engine block on the car with the dead battery. Don't connect it to the dead battery, carburetor, fuel lines or moving parts.
5. Stand back and start the car with the good battery.
6. Start the stalled car.
7. Remove the cables in reverse order.

* Wear a pair of splash-proof, polycarbonate goggles with the designation Z-87 on the frame. This certifies that your goggles are meant for activities such as automotive repair.
* Batteries contain sulfuric acid, which gives off flammable and explosive gas when a battery is charged or jump-started. Never smoke or operate anything that may cause a spark when working on a battery.
* Whenever you change the oil, take time to check your battery for damage such as cracks, corrosive materials and loose wires.
* Make sure you have a pair of jumper cables that are free of rust and corrosion and have no exposed wires. (Never use electrical tape to cover exposed wires.)
* Make sure you buy a battery that is recommended in your car owner's manual.
* Never throw an automobile battery in a garbage dumpster or leave it in a parking lot, especially if it is cracked or damaged. Take it to a service station and have it disposed of properly.
* Never jump-start your battery if your car's fluids are frozen.
* When buying a new battery, make sure that its terminals are sturdy and large enough to allow the clamps of a pair of jumper cables to attach easily when jump-starting.
* Always call a professional if you think there might be trouble you can't handle, or you can't remember how to jump-start a vehicle.
* Prevent Blindness America offers a battery safety sticker that lists the correct steps to take when jump-starting a dead battery. To get one, call 1-800-331-2020.




BY PHOENIX AT 07/18/06 01:00 PM

I think everyone should drive a jenky old POS for at least 6 months or so. Just so they can know the heartache of potentially expensive car repairs, maintenance where dealers don't work on the cars anymore and your local mechanic tries half the time to sell you on crap you don't need so you have to know when to fend them off and when to get the work done (using tactics like "can you show me where the damage is?" works if you understand enough to call the mechanic at their own game, my personal favorite was the good old "when the work is finished, may I have my old parts please?" That way you have your old gear so you can take it to get a second opinion from another mechanic-in the form of "mechanic x said this was busted. Is this true?" and potentially call out your first mechanic if you think they're a sneak) and know how to change a tire or jump your car.

I learned more driving an 86 Volvo 740 GLE than I care to know about cars, to be honest, but damn if I'm not happy to know how to jump someone (or get a jump) or how important it is to, if you're the type of person who would hesitate to stop someone for a jump, to keep one of those battery-packs for self-jumping in the trunk of your car, or know how to change a flat and put the donut on. Or for that matter, how important it is to keep important things in the back of your car for unexpected circumstances, like a first aid kit, a blanket, flares, stuff like that.

Never know when that gear, or more importantly the knowledge, will come in handy!

How to Properly Tune Up your Car

How to Properly Tune Up your Car

Introduction
Your car should receive a tune-up (often referred to as a "major service") every two years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. During this tune-up your car will receive some new parts that will hopefully keep it out of the shop for a while. Here's what needs to be done.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate
Things You'll Need

* Fuel Filters
* Car Parts
* Spark Plugs
* Car Manuals
* Oil Filters
* Phillips-head Screwdriver Sets
* Distributor Caps
* Air Filters
* Spark Plug Gapping Tools

Steps
1
Step One
Replace the fuel filter. If you have a fuel-injection system, regular cleaning isn't necessary unless the injectors are clogged.
2
Step Two
Change the spark plugs (unless they're platinum, in which case you have 30,000 more miles to go). Also examine the spark plug wires and replace as needed. A new set of high-quality wires is worth the cost. They may be permanently attached to the distributor cap, so it will have to be changed as well.
3
Step Three
Replace the distributor cap and rotor if your car has them (some newer models with distributorless ignition don't).
4
Step Four
Change the points and condenser if you have an older car (roughly 1978 or older) that doesn't feature electronic ignition. You'll actually want your points changed, or at least adjusted, every six months or so (if they're changed, check the ignition timing as well).
5
Step Five
Check the ignition timing and adjust as needed (rare for a car with electronic ignition--post-1980--and some cars don't allow this at all).
6
Step Six
Adjust the valves as needed (unless your car has hydraulic valves). Be sure to replace the valve-cover gasket as well, especially if you see oil on top of your engine.
7
Step Seven
Check the belts. Replace if worn.
8
Step Eight
Check the fluids under the hood and replenish as necessary. Change the oil and oil filter if it's been 3,000 miles since the last oil change.
9
Step Nine
Replace the air filter, which should be changed between major services--every 15,000 miles--as well.
10
Step Ten
Adjust the clutch, if you have a manual transmission (although some cars now sport self-adjusting clutches).
11
Step Eleven
Service the battery, adding distilled water (if required), cleaning terminals and cable ends.
12
Step Twelve
Replace the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. It can make your car run rough or stall if it gets clogged, and it's cheap and easy to replace.
Tips & Warnings

* A tune-up isn't a cure all, but when done regularly, it can prevent a host of expensive problems.